The Middle
Atlas mountains are Morocco's green lung, thanks to the many sources,
rivers, lakes and waterfalls. Several of the country’s main rivers
originate in this area. Covered with impressive cedar forests, wide
green plains, and home to thousands of barbary macaques, the Middle
Atlas is perfect for hiking.
This guide
describes a hiking trip that I did together with two friends in
October 2013. None of us were trained hikers, but we were all able to carry a 16 kg backpack for about 20 km each day on sometimes steep terrain. So although it is a beginners trip, you should have a good physical condition.
The itinerary of the trip on Google maps is available here.
The itinerary of the trip on Google maps is available here.
Some pointers
before we take off:
The best months
for this trip are March-May
and September-November.
In Summer time, it is very warm in this inland area, while during the
winter snow and freezing temperatures are not uncommon in the
mountains.
In Morocco,
road signs
only exist on paved roads. Paths in particular are not indicated at
all. As a result you often find yourself in the middle of a slope or
plain while the path underneath your feet suddenly doesn’t really
look like a path anymore. Local people usually know how the path
continues, but for outsiders it can be hard to follow its course.
Official detail maps of the region are only available
at the Agence Nationale de la
Conservation Foncière, du Cadastre et de le Cartographie
(ANCFCC) in Rabat. It can take a while and some effort to get the
maps you want. We managed to obtain copies of 1970 detail maps, which
were still quite accurate, not to mention the roads that are new or
were paved since. Another option is to use Google Maps, which has
quite good relief maps.
Food and
mineral water can be found in any
village. Every village we came across had several hanout
(grocery stores). As we do not pass a village every day during this
trip, you should bring enough food and water with you.
Wild camping
is pretty easy and safe in Morocco. However, if you are near a
village, it is always a good idea to ask a villager for advice. This
way, you know you are welcome and can avoid putting your tent on a
“wrong” spot. Moreover, villagers know the place and can give you
some good advice concerning the most beautiful spots.Day 1: getting in Azrou and going to Ain Toumliline (+ 450m, distance: 4,8 km)
You can go to Azrou from either Fez or Meknes by bus or by taxi collectif. It takes a few hours to get there.
Note: take
enough food and water with you for the
first days. The first time we'll see a village again is at the end of
the third day. There are some sources where you can get water, such
as Aïn Toumliline, were the water should be drinkable. But better to
be safe than sorry, so be sure to bring water purification
tablets.
The first hike
is a short but steep one. You will climb about 450 meters. The
starting point is at Place du Centre
in Azrou's city center. Climb along the main road and take the second
street on the right, towards Hôtel
Panorama. Pass alongside the hotel
following the paved road. Where the paved road turns left again, keep
a right and take the path between the two houses. Follow the path for
1500 meters, until it rejoins the paved road.
 |
| Aïn Toumliline source |
For the last
part of your first day hike, climb alongside the dried up riverbed
behind the source. Turn right and follow the three-less corridor
between the forests. Just after you have reached the highest point,
take a look in the forest at the left. You will find some excellent
camping spots. When we woke up there the next day, we saw a troop of
macaques. |
| Our camping spot |
Day 2: through the cedar forests to Lac Afennourir (almost flat, 17,5 km)
Day 2 takes us
through some planes and cedar forests to the Afennourir Lake, that is
protected by the Ramsar Convention. Here you will find a wide variety of birds.
Continue to
follow the three-less corridor between the forest. After a few
hundred meters, you will find a paved road at your left side. This is
the low-traffic Route Touristique des
Cèdres. A mere five cars passed us by
during the course of an entire day.
 |
| barbary macaques |
 |
| Inside the cedar forests |
The Route
Touristique des Cèdres crosses a plain for a good 4.7 km, after which it enters a huge cedar forest, where
you have a good chance to see wild barbary macaques. Be quiet and
listen carefully and you might be able to spot them.
After 7 km, and
having crossed several small open spaces inside the forest, the road
leaves the forest behind once again. Two km further ahead on the
plane, you will arrive at an intersection. Turn right and leave the
paved road behind you. Follow the non-paved road for 3,8 km up to
Afennourir Lake.
 |
| Afennourir Lake |
Note: there is
no village or possibility to stock up on fresh water or supplies near
the lake. You will have to bring enough food and water with you.
Note: The lake
is not suited for swimming. Further ahead on our hike, we will go to
lakes where you can swim.
Day 3: to Aïn Leuh (+125m, -425m, distance: 11,5 km)
Follow the
unpaved road next to the Afennourir Lake, and turn right leading you
into the hills. You are now crossing a sparse cedar forest, that
grows into a densely wooded forest.
After 3 km of
forest, you will end up on a plain. After 1 km the paved road will
bring you to an intersection. Take the road on your right, that will
lead you into the forest. After 3,3 km you will arrive in the village
of Assamane. Cross the village by going to the left at the second
intersection and follow the road into the village for about 300
meters. From the center of the village, take the path that goes to
the West for 600 meters. You will arrive at the paved P7215 road.
This is not the nicest road to hike and there might be quite some
traffic, but it is the easiest way to get to our destination for the
day. Follow this road to the West for 1,2 km, until you arrive at an
intersection with another paved road going from North to South. Turn
left, southwards for 2 km. You are now in the center of Aïn Leuh.
Indicated as a
tiny village on our 1970's map, Aïn Leuh has grown steadily over the
last decades, and you will easily find supplies such as food and
water in the village's hanout.
 |
| Post office of Aïn Leuh |
Camping spots
can be found at the outskirts of the village. It is recommended to
ask the villagers for advice, in order not to disturb anyone. While
arriving in the village we ran into Hassan, who operates a
guesthouse called Gite Montana in the village. Son of an American
mother, Hassan speaks English fluently and will be eager to help you.
We ate tajine at his guesthouse and afterwords, Hassan showed us an
excellent place to camp, from where we had an overview of the
village.
Day 4: to Zawyat Ifrane (+50 m, -400 m, distance: 18 km)
 |
| The main road going South |
 |
| Fragile sand rocks |
About 800
meters after the second U-turn, where the paved road turns left, go
straight ahead, leaving the paved road. There are two paths very near
to each other. Be careful to take the correct one. Do not take the
path at the right that goes down. Instead, take the leftmost one,
that goes into the forest and climbs along the slope of the hill.
After about 2 km, you will see a formation of fragile sand rocks on
your left. After 800 meters, the path joins the paved road again.
 |
| Zawyat Ifrane and it's plateau |
Follow the
paved road for 3,6 km. 200 meters after the road turns left, there is
an intersection with a unpaved road at the right going South-West.
Follow this road for 4 km. You are crossing a corridor of empty land
in-between the forests. You will pass a lonely three at one point.
The road is quite tricky at some times, as there are a few unclear
intersections. Always go straight forward, and never turn left.
Continue to follow the road as it goes into the forest and zig-zags
down the valley. After 5,5 km, you see a plateau in front of you with
waterfalls falling from it. The village of Zawayt
Ifrane is at the feet of the plateau.
Follow the road and it will guide you to the village. You can leave
the road before the telephone pole and turn right to take a shortcut
and get in the village faster.
 |
| Main waterfall in Zawyat Ifrane |
Note: several
hanout are
located in the village. You can easily get food and water. There is
also a guesthouse. Ask villagers where you can put your tent. We
asked Hamid, the president of the local honey cooperative. He let us
stay in a field right in front of the main waterfall. A lovely place,
if you don't mind the noise of the water falling down.
Day 5: to Wiwane (+500 m, distance: 19 km)
 |
| Zawyat Ifrane |
From Zawyat
Ifrane, take the path to the east that runs along the plateau. Turn
right when you can in order to get on top of the plateau. Follow the
creeks in order to get to the source. Just 50 meters east of the
source, you will find a path that climbs the mountain south of the
plateau. Take this path and climb along with it to the top. This will
be a steep hike and at times it might become difficult to keep track
of the path, but keep in mind that the goal is to cross the top of
the mountain.
 |
 |
 |
| Heading towards the source | Source | Climbing the mountain, with the plateau in the background |
Once you are at the top, you can see the bare plain at
the other side. At your right, you will see an unpaved road. Go to this
road and follow it. There is not a lot of traffic. We were here the
day of the Eid Lkbir,
the Feast of the Sacrifice, and all day long there wasn’t a single
car that passed us by.
 |
| Intermittent lake |
After 1,7 km,
the road will lead us into a forest for about 500 meters. Afterwards,
you will cross a plain on a two kilometer long turn to the East. Pay
attention to the farms that you see at the outskirt of the forest.
These people live without running water or electricity. One farmer
family hailed us welcome from a distance and invited us for tea.
Follow the road and after 3,5 km, there is an intermittent
lake at your right. 1,4 km further, along the road
enters the forest again for 1,5 km and starts turning northwards
after a while. Eventually, the road will rejoin the paved road again.
Follow this paved road to the South for 3,5 km and you will arrive at
Wiwane Lake.
Note: there are
two hanout
nearby, both on the main paved road. One is at the point where the
road turns west, away from the lake, the other one is a few
kilometers further down the road. The village of Wiwane also has two
guesthouses. Although there are a few lakes, nobody seems to use them
to go for a swim.
Day 6: to the sources of the Oum Rbia (14 km)
 |
| Tea houses along the sources |
 |
| Sources of the Oum Rbia |
The Oum Rbia,
Morocco's biggest river, originates in the Middle Atlas. To get to
the sources from Wiwane, you just need to follow the paved road for
14 km. It is quite a boring track and there are no forests offering
shelter. There is more traffic than we were used to the last days so
be careful. You can hitchhike to get to the sources quicker.
The sources are quite
touristic. Have some tea in of the many cafes. You can easily get
food and water.
Day 7: to Kenitra or to Aguelmame Azigza (22 km)
From the sources of
the Oum Rbia, there are two options. Either you return to city life
by going to Khenifra, or you prolong your stay in the mountains and
go to Aguelmame Azizga, a lake where you can finally have a swim. In
the second case, Khenifra will be your stop for the day after.
 |
| Portugese bridge in Khenifra |
To go to Khenifra,
first hitchhike to M'rirt or take a taxi if you can. From M'rirt you
can take a bus or taxi to Khenifra. You should be warned that
Khenifra is a boring town. Besides an old Portugese bridge and a carpet souk,
there is nothing to do. If it is not too late, try to go immediately
to the less boring Beni Mellal.
Note: Khenifra should not be confused with Kenitra, a coastal city close to Rabat
 |
| Lahcen's house |
 |
| Lahcen's berber tent in front of the lake |
For Aguelmame Azigza,
take the paved road at your left when you come from the sources of
the Oum Rbia. Follow the road for 22 km to get to the Azigza lake.
You can try to hitchhike if you don't want to walk. There are no
villages or shops on the road. At the North-Western side of the lake,
there is the house of Lahcen, the only place where you will find
something to eat close to the lake. Lahcen has a berber tent where
you can sleep, drink tea or have a meal. The lake is perfect for
swimming.
From Aguelmame Azigza
you will have to hitchhike to Khenifra as there is no public
transport around. The best chances to hitchhike are in the early
morning or late afternoon.
Thanks to Nicolas and Sarah for their photo's and contribution
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